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More about the current research coming later.

Meanwhile, read our updates from the field in Africa.

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© Jean-Michel Krief
Chimp fact-files:
@ HARVARD
More about this blog, the blogger and the Kibale Chimpanzee Project
The Chimp Files Chimp files: the Kanyawara community up close
Studying primate behavioral ecology at Harvard
Biological Anthropology Website Visit the official website of Biological Anthropology at Harvard
More on Uganda

:: Kibale Forest, NP
:: Uganda Wildlife Education Centre
:: Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary
:: Uganda country profile
:: Uganda Wildlife Authority
:: TrekEarth: Ugandan photos

Conservation

:: The Great Ape World Heritage Species Project
:: Priorities for Great Ape Conservation: Presentation at the 2005 UNEP meeting in the DRC.
:: The Status of Chimpanzees in Uganda: Wildlife Conservation Society Report 2003.

Learn about chimpanzees

:: Discover Chimpanzees: More about the animals in Gombe, Tanzania.
:: 3chimps: Hominoid Psychology Research Group
:: Chimpanzee Cultures: Database on cultural variations in chimpanzee behavior.
:: Chimp week (BBC): the Gombe story on TV

Kasiisi School Building Project

In partnership with the Kibale Chimpanzee Project, this non-profit organization supports conservation education in primary schools.

Find out more about the work that goes on in rural Uganda near Kibale National Park.

 

The chimp blog: archive

At the start of 2006 Ian Gilby, post-doctoral fellow at the Department of Anthropology at Harvard , spent a month in Kibale National Park, Uganda studying the behavior of the chimpanzees from the Kanyawara community. You can read through his posts from the field below.

THE KANYAWARA BLOG ARCHIVE - FEBRUARY 6


Ian getting thirsty in the field © Jean-Michel Krief

Back in the USA

I'm back home again, adjusting to the chilly weather in Boston. It's amazing how quickly the time in Uganda slipped by.

I feel I had only just re-adjusted to the pace of life in the field before it was time to come home.

Still, it's wonderful to be back with my family again, and I'm already thinking about my next trip to Kanyawara in June. As cheesy as it sounds, Africa gets into your blood, and once it's there, it's impossible to shake the need to return.

The trip back

My journey home was extremely smooth. After a wonderful dinner and a very late night out at Ndali Lodge with some fellow researchers, I left Kanyawara at about 6:30 last Thursday morning.

Kathi Pieta, the interim project field manager, drove me into Fort Portal, together with two other researchers who were also traveling to Kampala.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We hopped on to a Kalita Executive bus, and sat for 45 minutes while it filled with passengers.

The radio blasted a mix of music, news and gossip, in Rutoro (the local language), English and Swahili. Vendors climbed on and off the bus, selling water, snacks, soap, cell phone cases and newspapers.

Before long, we slowly pulled out of town, accompanied by the piercing sounds of the bus's horn, which blared different tunes to scare the wits out of the pedestrians and cyclists in our path.

After a few stops in and around Fort Portal, we were soon speeding (and I mean speeding!) along the main road to Kampala. The road was quite twisty, and the bus leaned crazily on each corner, the horn screaming to warn anyone who might be in our path.

At one point, we stopped at a police checkpoint, and since the bus was completely full, a man was sitting on the steps.

The driver quickly handed him a pen and told him to act like a conductor collecting tickets so that the police wouldn't fine them for carrying too many passengers!

He didn't have any paper or tickets, but the police seemed to be fooled.

In all, the trip took just over 4 hours, and it became increasingly hot, dusty and loud as we progressed.

In Kampala

Kampala is very crowded, and I was amazed at the driver's skill in maneuvering through the crush of people, cars, motorcycles, cows and bicycles.

That being said, we did hit a police car as we neared the bus station, but it wasn't serious.

It was blisteringly hot as Julia Lloyd (another Kibale chimp researcher) and I haggled for a taxi.

We would have rather ridden on the back of a boda boda (motorcycle), but I was carrying a large backpack and 7 months of data, so it would have been impossible to balance!

We chose a nearby hotel, and after organizing a taxi pickup for my departure the next morning, and running a few errands, Julia and I had a meal and discussed her research on the impacts of tourism on chimpanzee behavior.

Exhausted from the day, I crashed early, and before I knew it, I was heading to the airport in the early morning. After a long, long day (9 hours to London, and then another 7 ½ to Boston), I finally fell into my own bed, and slept slept slept!

Ian

JANUARY 29

Since my last entry, my routine has been very much the same. I get up at 5:00 AM , eat a quick breakfast, and head into the forest at 5:30 with the team of field assistants.


Ian checking the data collection with Francis © Jean-Michel Krief

We usually arrive at the chimpanzee nests at about 6:00 , and often wait as long as an hour before the chimps begin to stir.

The chimps have still been in small parties, traveling very little. There are one or two fig trees that are fruiting now, but not enough to cause the formation of large parties.

Elephant alert

This morning was very exciting. We un-nested Kakama close to the fig tree where he spent most of yesterday. He sat up at about 7:00, quickly climbed down, and started traveling quickly.

Francis and Japan stayed behind to collect a urine sample, while James (a new field assistant) and I crashed off after Kakama.

It was still quite dark, so we relied on our ears to follow him. He pant-hooted and buttress-drummed once or twice, and then stopped in a clearing to listen for the calls of other chimps.

 


Ian looking for chimps
© Jean-Michel Krief

He seemed very cautious, and sat quietly for several minutes, staring into the undergrowth.

Suddenly, we heard a crash of vegetation, and a low rumble, and realized that an elephant was standing not more than 15 meters away from us!

We had been seeing a lot of elephant evidence over the past few days in that area – dung, flattened trees and cleared areas that hadn't been there previously.

Last week, two field assistants, Soloman and John, surprised a mother and a calf at 10 meters, and she charged them.

John dropped his pack and she stopped charging to trample it, scattering its contents into the trees. John feels that the pack saved his life.

So, with this story fresh in my mind, I scanned the area for escape routes.

Luckily, it seemed as if this elephant had been there for a while, since there were many trampled paths leading in and out of the clearing.

It raised its head and started to slowly sway back and forth, probably smelling the air, sensing that we were there.

I felt that we should start moving away slowly, but James suggested that we wait and see what direction it chose first. In a minute or two, it started toward us, and we moved away quickly at a 90-degree angle so that our scent would be harder to trace.

I was ready to drop my pack, thinking about my camera inside. We soon found a trail and stopped to listen.

It was hard to hear over our panting and nervous laughter, but all seemed quiet.

At that point, we heard Francis and Japan “hooing” to contact us, and soon after, we all joined up again.

James and I told our story, and I was glad to hear that had been as scared as I!

We moved off to the Ficus brachypoda tree where Kakama had been feeding yesterday, and sure enough, Kakama arrived, followed by Rosa, Rafiki, Outamba, Ekisigi and their offspring.

The excitement over, we relaxed and watched the chimps feed in the tree for the rest of the morning.

Ian

JANUARY 21

The last few days have passed very quickly. I've been out with the Kanyawara chimps several more times, and am slowly learning to identify individuals.

Outamba and her daughter vocalizing © Jean-Michel Krief

First, we spent two days with Outamba and her family as they fed on Ficus brachylepis fruits and traveled very little.

Then, on Tuesday, Kakama quietly joined them.

Kakama is an impressive young male, whom many agree will probably be the next alpha male.

He has a rather round face, thick hair, and the sleek grey back that is characteristic of many of the males here.

After feeding with Outamba and her family for a couple of hours, Kakama suddenly descended and traveled rapidly to the west.

Japan (one of the field assistants) and I quickly followed him as he melted through the undergrowth. He traveled without stopping for 30 minutes, periodically pant-hooting and buttress drumming.

Kakama © Jean-Michel Krief

Soon his calls were answered by several others, and suddenly we were surrounded by chimps! Kakama displayed into the thick vegetation, and there was much commotion as chimps screamed and scattered in his path.

It was hard to tell who was there until a few minutes later, when all was calm. We found Kakama grooming with two other males, Big Brown and Stout, with 10-year old Bud lying nearby.

Several females, including Quinto, a new immigrant, rested a few meters away.

After a short reunion, the males moved on, and soon joined several others, including the alpha male, Imoso.

 


Figs are among the chimps' staples.
© Jean-Michel Krief

He made several impressive charging displays, reminding Kakama that he still outranks him.

The party settled down, and many fed on Ficus natalensis fruits. Outamba and family joined us, followed by Francis and John, the field assistants who had been with them since the morning.

We spent the rest of the day with this party.

I tried my best to learn the new faces, and discussed data collection methods with the field assistants.

It was nice to be with a big group of chimps again!

It was so familiar - the smells, sounds and sensations of following chimps - yet, there were subtle differences that I'm sure I will continue to notice....

Ian

JANUARY 15


I've been into the forest twice more since my last entry. The situation is still very much the same - the chimps are scattered far and wide, and the field assistants have been following whomever they can find. For the past few days they have concentrated on Outamba and her large family. I have been accompanying them, monitoring the data collection, and getting to know the family.

We had a good meeting with all the staff a couple of days ago, during which we introduced the new data sheets. After discussing them with the field assistants, I have a few final changes to make, and then they will start using them. I will be in the forest with them each day, answering their questions, and making sure that they are consistent in what they record.

Yesterday Martin and I drove down to the Ngogo research camp to pick up some chimpanzee urine samples. It was a stunning drive through towering trees and then large stretches of elephant grass and acacia trees. I plan to walk down to Ngogo later this week, and will describe it in greater detail in a future blog entry.

Ian

JANUARY 12

Makoku - one of the chimps Ian met today © Jean-Michel Krief

Early start to go out for chimps

I've just returned from a wonderful morning in the forest. Last night, we heard that the field assistants had “nested” four chimpanzees not far from camp.

Chimpanzees construct large night nests in trees by weaving branches together. Since chimpanzees are sometimes hard to find, it's particularly valuable to know where they have nested.

I awoke shakily at 5:00 AM , and quickly got dressed in the pre-dawn chill. I wore my typical field “uniform” – army pants, a t-shirt and an army ranger's vest. It was damp and cool, so I also put on a long-sleeved thermal top. The forest can be quite wet in places, so I wore knee-high rubber boots.

I quickly wolfed down a couple of slices of toast in the kitchen, where I met Richard, who was also heading out to find the chimps.

Soon 4 field assistants, Francis, Solomon, John and Japan materialized from the darkness, and after they gathered their datasheets, we set off.

We quickly left the main track, and after a few twists and turns, were below the nests. It was still quite dark, so we sat quietly, listening to the first bird calls and monkey chirps as the forest started to wake.

Solomon found a long forked stick, and fitted it with a plastic bag, ready to catch urine falling from the nests. These samples will be used for the ongoing endocrinology research that Martin and others conduct here at Kibale.

Late start for the chimps

It had been a chilly, wet night, so the chimpanzees were slow to wake. They were so late, in fact, that Richard had to return to camp to prepare for a meeting before they were properly out of their nests. First to descend was Tongo, carrying year-old Tsunami, and followed by four-year old Tuber.

Almost immediately, Makoku, an adult male, swung out of his low nest and set off down the path. We quickly fell in behind him, while Tongo and her family traveled 10 meters or so to our right. Makoku's pace did not change when he turned off the trail into the thick, damp undergrowth.


Kibale forest - plantlife beneath the canopy can be quite thick.
© Kate Wrangham-Briggs

Solomon followed first, using a panga (machete) to clear the way. This was new to me – at Gombe, we used to struggle through the tangles without pangas, often on our hands and knees.

Very soon, the chimps disappeared into an impenetrable tangle of vegetation, where they started munching on terrestrial herbs. We spent a couple of hours, chatting about the differences between Gombe and Kibale, families, backgrounds, etc, and occasionally checking to make sure that the chimps were still there.

Honey raid

At about 10:00 , we suddenly realized that they had moved on, so we quickly skirted the patch they had been feeding in, and caught up with them just as Makoku climbed to raid a bees nest.

He sat about 30 feet up, reaching his arm into a hole in the crotch of a tree. Angry bees swarmed him, and he repeated swatted at them as he feasted on large honeycombs.

Tongo sat just below Makoku and stared at the honey, but she did not attempt to steal any from him. It's always a bit nerve-wracking watching chimps and bees, because it is quite common for the bees to turn on the observers as well. So, we kept our distance, and soon Makoku climbed down. Tongo immediately inspected what was left of the hive, but I did not see if she got any honey, because Makoku was traveling on.

Mid-day nap

He climbed a large fig tree, and after eating a few figs, sat quietly grooming himself. Francis and Solomon caught up on their field notes, and I used a GPS unit to record our location.

One of my goals for this project is to assess whether it is practical to include GPS technology in the long-term data collection. Currently, the field assistants record the location of chimpanzee groups by hand on a map of the park.

After a few minutes, Makoku built himself a large day nest in the fig tree, and lay down for a nap. It was about 12:30 , so I decided to return to camp to finish writing a set of data-collection instructions for the field assistants. We will be meeting with them tomorrow to introduce some new datasheets.

It was fantastic to be back in the forest.

Ian

See also
:: The chimp files
:: More about the Kibale Chimpanzee Project

On the web

Makerere University Biological Field Station
Everything you need to know about this facility, located in Kibale National Park. With info on the animals you can see there.
ARKive: Images of Life on Earth
Watch 22 high-quality video clips of chimpanzee behavior from across Africa.


JANUARY 11


Kanyawara gate of Kibale National Park
© Kate Wrangham-Briggs

First days in Kibale forest

I'm sitting on the porch of chimp house, listening to the forest wake up on my second full day at Kibale. Before we arrived there had been no rain for a month, but there have been two thunderstorms since we arrived.

The evenings and mornings have been chilly, and everything is wonderfully green and lush. Unfortunately, I have not yet ventured into the forest. We had a meeting yesterday to discuss the duties of the new field manager, and my focus today will be to write up some instructions for him. I hope to be done relatively quickly so that I can explore the forest a bit this afternoon.

When we first arrived there were a few black and white colobus monkeys in the trees behind the house, and yesterday evening a troop of baboons briefly passed through camp. I understand that camp is usually teeming with primates, and that the current conditions are rather unusual.


Black and white colobus monkeys can be seen in camp
© Sonya Kahlenberg

Apparently there isn't much food available for the chimpanzees, so they are spread far and wide. The males haven't been seen for several days. I'm hoping that conditions will change in the next couple of weeks so that I can see as much of the community as I can.

Chimp house

Since I haven't been into the forest yet, let me describe our camp. Chimp house is a low cement building with a corrugated metal roof – typical of the buildings here at the research station.

There are three simple bedrooms with comfortable beds, mosquito nets, and screen cabinets for storing clothes. We must be careful not to leave damp clothing out, for fear of mango flies. Mango flies lay eggs in damp clothing, and when the larvae hatch, they burrow into one's skin, where they mature. So after our clothes dry on a clothesline, they must be ironed to kill the eggs.


Chimp house © Sonya Kahlenberg

The side door of the house opens onto a kind of courtyard, flanked by large rainwater barrels and the kitchen. There is a small gas burner and a hearth where Margaret, the cook/housekeeper, bakes fresh bread.

Attached to the kitchen is a shower room, where there is sometimes running water for a cold scrubdown. More often than not people pour water over themselves with a cup and a bucket. Richard and Elizabeth have their own house just beyond the kitchen, and the “long-drop” toilet is just up the hill.

Makerere University field station

Chimp house is set apart from the rest of the research station, which is run by Makerere University . The main compound consists of many buildings – duplexes for visiting researchers, offices, a library, a small canteen, and a dormitory that holds 60 people. The latter is used mainly for field courses from Makerere and other universities. In the mid-90s, the field station employed 170 workers, but now there are considerably fewer, as funding is tight.

In my next entry, I will hopefully describe my first observations of the Kanyawara chimpanzee community.

Ian

See also
:: The chimp files
:: More about the Kibale Chimpanzee Project

On the web

Makerere University Biological Field Station
Everything you need to know about this facility, located in Kibale National Park. With info on the animals you can see there.
ARKive: Images of Life on Earth
Watch 22 high-quality video clips of chimpanzee behavior from across Africa.


You can also read the early entries from this blog:
January 1
January 5
January 6
January 7
January 8
 

:: Contact information: see the official website of Department of Anthropology, Harvard University ::

 

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