Harvard Freshmen Experience Kyoto
On March 22, Miikael Adolphson, assistant professor of Japanese history, and 12 freshmen departed from Logan Airport for Osaka. The destination was Kyoto, Japan’s capital from 794 to 1868, and the trip was part of a freshman seminar entitled “Sin in the City: Historical Tales in Kyoto.” After weeks of intense readings of monographs, historical sources and literary works, the students reached a new level of understanding of the cultural settings of various ages by visiting a number of historical locations. The highlights included a tour of the Imperial Palace and its Enthronement Hall (which is not open to the public), a 2.5 hour hike up Mt. Hiei retracing the paths of monks who journeyed between the capital and the powerful monastery of Enryakuji, Zen-inspired temples in the north-western area of Kyoto, a unique tea ceremony at Saidaiji outside of Nara and an excursion to Osaka to experience life in ”Japan’s Kitchen.”

Even though the students sacrificed an opportunity to return home or go to warm beaches, nobody seems to have regretted spending spring break studying on location. “It is amazing to have read a book on the famous ninth century Japanese scholar and politician, Sugawara no Michizane, and then a few weeks later to visit the shrine dedicated to his memory. The experience was further enhanced by the distinctively Japanese accommodation, as the group stayed at the Gesshin’in, a Zen temple founded in the early seventeenth century that was also used as a hide-out by rebelling samurai in the 1860s. Located on the foot of a hill in the eastern part of Kyoto, yet close to the Gion and downtown areas where theaters, traditional restaurants and geishas abound, it gave the students a unique sense of history and culture. The challenge of leaving a warm futon on frosty mornings was quickly overcome by the joy of having breakfast overlooking a beautiful garden, and the variety of daily excursions.  

His importance as a prominent scholar became obvious when we saw the many kids and adults crowding around to buy Michizane’s charms, to bring them luck with passing general examinations,” said Laura Maludzinski. Erika Hamden added: “With our collective knowledge of the subjects we had studied, each temple became more than just a structure of wood and bronze. Each shrine was more than just a building, and each day was full of excitement. Instead of being regular tourists, each of us was able to connect the buildings and sights with what we have learned.” What better way to spend spring break?